NIKE X MARTINE ROSE
By self-admission, Martine Rose has never been interested in fashion but fascinated by how people “interact with clothes.”
This mantra is at the base of the London-based menswear designer’s first collaboration with Nike, a capsule featuring tracksuits, football jerseys and a completely remastered Nike Air Monarch. In typical Rose style, the line-up features plenty of distorted proportions, flanked by her ability to transform the ordinary into something “really quite exceptional.”
Most often, the transformation happens through a rule-breaking experimentation with form and fit.
The clothing has English subcultural reference points, but the scale is based on basketball players. “Basketball players are superhuman — their bodies have formed in different ways because of their profession. We looked at a lot of players and their proportions. We then re-imagined their clothes on average-size people. For example, if I were wearing one of their tracksuits, I would have to repurpose it in order to fit my proportions; I’d have to tuck the seams,” explains Rose.
As for the Monarch, “it was very intentional to use the Monarch as the silhouette, being a very American shoe, and then put it with the very English silhouette of the tracksuit,” says Rose.
To give a very ordinary shoe a very extraordinary shape, Rose relied on Nike’s undisputed expertise. Groundbreaking to the max, starting with fitting a size 18 upper to size 9 tooling, Rose’s Air Monarch was built as a series of molds that were topped with stretched synthetic leather.