For Fall/Winter 2025, Anthony Vaccarello presents two collections conceived in perfect duality: menswear built on rigidity as a mask, womenswear narrating authenticity through color.
The dialogue begins with an imagined encounter between two cultural icons: Yves Saint Laurent and Robert Mapplethorpe, the prince of New York’s underground. “It was interesting to imagine what two favorite people of mine might have said to each other back then” Vaccarello explains. “Yves Saint Laurent was trying to hold onto his respectability while tearing it apart, and Robert was very chic but you can feel a toughness in his attitude”
The men’s collection redefines tailoring through sharp, decisive forms. The silhouette recalls the Eighties, reinterpreted with a refined take on the shoulder line: aged-leather aviator blousons, wide trousers, flawless double-breasted blazers, and three-piece suits paired with bold ties. Outerwear with assertive patterns echoes Saint Laurent’s work in womenswear, while impeccably cut jackets conceal the sense of danger Vaccarello associates with the decade.
The women’s collection lets color define the cut, introducing a striking palette: fuchsia, coral, amethyst, ochre, emerald, citrine, terracotta, olive. “I wanted something clean, with no ornamentation, no decoration, no... nothing” Vaccarello notes. The result recalls YSL’s couture of the nineties: pure forms and the inverted triangle of the shoulders narrowing to the hem, not through rigid structures but through the natural movement of fabrics. Washed satin and technical jersey, used for the first time by the designer, emphasize elasticity and freedom, shaping high-neck coats cinched at the waist with sash belts, as well as essential sack dresses. The house’s signature black is joined by shades of brown and tan; bow blouses are paired with pencil skirts, voluminous skirts with clean-cut silk tops.
Accessories include slingbacks with curved heels, sculptural gold earrings, and oversized sunglasses.
